by Jessica Gore of The Sweater Collective
These fun socks knit up in no time, and are a great way to experiment with a toe-up construction if you’ve been wanting to give it a try!
Small: 15.5cm (6″) circumference, fits approximate foot circumference of 19cm (7 ½”); women’s EU 37–39/US 6 ½–8 ½
Medium: 18cm (7″) circumference, fits approximate foot circumference of 22cm (8 ¾”); women’s EU 40–42/US 9–10, men’s EU 40–42/US 7 ½–8 ½
Large: 20cm (8″) circumference, fits approximate foot circumference of 25cm (9 ¾”); women’s EU 43–45/US 10 ½–13, men’s EU 43–45/US 9–11 ½
Manos del Uruguay Alegria (75% Superwash Merino, 25% Polyamide; 425 m [445 yds]/100 g,) 1 skein Atlantico colourway, or 100g fingering weight sock yarn
Sample used approximately 50g (213 m [223 yds]) for Medium Size pair of socks (EU 41/US 9 ½).
NEEDLES & NOTIONS
2.25mm (US 1), at least 80cm (32”) length circular needle for working Magic Loop method, double-pointed needles or short 23cm (9″) circular needle (see first note, below), or size to obtain gauge
2 removable stitch markers (optional during heel turn, or for using a different style of needle/method of working in the round)
Sock blockers (optional)
36 stitches x 50 rounds = 10 cm (4″) in stockinette stitch on 2.25 mm needles, knit in the round and relaxed after blocking.
Stockinette stitch = knit every round
-Instructions are written for the Magic Loop method of working in the round with a long circular needle. They are to be worked from the beginning to end of each round unless instructions are specified for stitches on first needle (N1; top of foot/front of leg), and second needle (N2; sole of foot/back of leg), separately. If you are using double-pointed needles or a short circular needle, use markers as needed to designate between what will be the front and back halves of the sock.
-A toe-up cast on, such as Judy’s Magic Cast On, and a stretchy bind off, such as Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off, are recommended for beginning and finishing your socks. You will also need to know how to work short rows by wrapping stitches.
-Stitch counts are written for Small Size with [Medium, Large] Size stitch counts in brackets.
VIDEO TUTORIAL LINKS
Judy’s Magic Cast On
DIRECTIONS (MAKE 2)
CO 12 [16, 20] sts using Judy’s Magic Cast On. Ensure sts are divided evenly so you have 6 [8, 10] sts each on N1 and N2, or if you are using double-pointed needles or a short circular needle, use markers to designate between the front and back halves of the sock. Prepare to work in the rnd.
N1: knit to end.
N2: ktbl to end.
N1: k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc’d)
N2: as for N1. (2 sts inc’d)
Repeat Rnd 2 until you have 28 [32, 36] sts total. (14 [16, 18] sts each on N1 and N2)
Rnd 3: knit to end.
Repeat Rnds 2–3 until you have 56 [64, 72] sts total (28 [32, 36] sts each on N1 and N2), ending with Rnd 3.
Continue in stockinette stitch (knit every rnd) until sock measures approximately 10 [11.5, 13] cm (4 [4 ½, 5]”) less than the length of your foot, measured from tip of the toe. (Keep your row gauge in mind if it differs from what is recommended!)
N1: knit to end.
N2: k1, M1R, knit to last stitch, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc’d)
Rnd 2: knit to end.
Repeat Rnds 1–2 until you have 56 [64, 72] sts on N2 (28 [32, 36] rnds total), ending with Rnd 2.
This is a partial rnd to set up working the heel.
N1: knit to end.
For a contrasting heel, begin working with a different yarn colour here. Do not cut original yarn.
N2: k14 [16, 18].
You will now be working across the middle 28 [32, 36] sts from N2 only; these are the heel sts. Use markers if you wish to designate your gusset sts which will be left unworked for now (14 [16, 18] sts just worked, and last 14 [16, 18] sts on opposite end of N2), from the heel sts. Leave sts from N1 resting on the cable of your circular needle or a spare double-pointed needle.
HEEL TURN (worked flat)
Row 1 (RS): k26 [30, 34], w&t.
Row 2 (WS): p24 [28, 32], w&t.
Row 3 (RS): knit to 2 sts before next wrapped st, w&t. (1 unwrapped st between wrapped sts)
Row 4 (WS): purl to 2 sts before next wrapped st, w&t. (1 unwrapped st between wrapped sts)
Repeat Rows 3–4 three [four, five] times more, ending with Row 4. (8 unwrapped sts in middle of heel and 5 [6, 7] wrapped sts on either side)
Next Row (RS): k17 [19, 21], picking up wraps and knitting them tog tbl with the wrapped sts as you reach them. Remove marker if used, ssk last heel st tog with the first gusset st. Turn work. (55 [63, 71] sts on N2)
Next Row (WS): sl1 pwise wyif, p26 [30, 34], picking up wraps and purling them tog with the wrapped sts as you reach them. Remove marker if used, purl last heel st tog with the next gusset st. Turn work. (54 [62, 70] sts on N2)
EYE OF PARTRIDGE HEEL FLAP (worked flat)
Worked across existing 28 [32, 36] heel sts and remaining gusset sts.
Row 1 (RS): *sl1 kwise wyib, k1* thirteen [fifteen, seventeen] times, sl1 kwise wyib, ssk. Turn work. (1 st dec’d)
Row 2 (WS): sl1 pwise wyif, p26 [30, 34], p2tog. Turn work. (1 st dec’d)
Row 3 (RS): sl1 kwise wyib, *sl1 kwise wyib, k1* thirteen [fifteen, seventeen] times, ssk. Turn work. (1 st dec’d)
Row 4 (WS): sl1 pwise wyif, p26 [30, 34], p2tog. Turn work. (1 st dec’d)
Repeat Rows 1–4 five [six, seven] times more, then Rows 1–2 once more. (28 [32, 36] sts on N2)
Resume working in the rnd. (56 [64, 72] sts)
(Change back to original yarn here if a contrasting heel was worked, and cut other yarn)
N2: knit to end.
Next Rnd: knit to end.
Rnds 1–8: *k1tbl, p1* to end.
BO all sts using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. Cut yarn and draw through last st to secure. Weave in any loose ends of yarn, then soak socks in lukewarm water with wool wash added for 15–20 minutes. Squeeze out excess water and roll socks up in between two towels, then lay them to dry on a flat surface (using sock blockers to shape your socks as they dry is optional, but recommended).
BO: bind off
CO: cast on
k2tog: knit 2 together
kwise: knitwise (as if to knit)
M1L: make 1 left (with left hand needle, lift strand of yarn between next and just worked stitches from front to back, knit this strand through the back loop)
M1R: make 1 right (with left hand needle, lift strand of yarn between next and just
worked stitches from back to front, knit this strand through the front loop)
N1: needle 1
N2: needle 2
pwise: purlwise (as if to purl)
RS: right side
ssk: slip, slip, knit (slip the next stitch knitwise to right hand needle twice, slip both stitches back to left hand needle and knit together through the back loop)
tbl: through back loop
w&t: wrap and turn (wrap the next stitch, turn your work)
WS: wrong side
wyib: with yarn in back
wyif: with yarn in front